Casting About

In my hysteria enthusiasm to start the Kingscot with my newly refurbished yarn, I managed a new trick.  My loathing for ribbing stems mostly from its inelastic (and inelegant) cast on edge.  And if I dislike 1 x 1 rib, I hate 2 x 2 at least twice as much. 

But there is no denying that the 2 x 2 rib used in the Kingscot cardigan is not only beautiful, it's an integral part of the silhouette.  So 2 x 2 it had to be, but I just couldn't settle for the usual cast on edge.  Enter my pal (okay, I've never met her, but she's sure given me a lot of cool tricks) Montse Stanley.  Montse maintains that there is no perfect cast on edge for 2 x 2 rib because they all slant unattractively.  This one slants as well, but I think it's as close to perfect as knitters have gotten.  Read on, try it out, and weigh in!  Do you know a better way?  Yes, it's fiddly, and there's that waste yarn to mess with.  But I think the end result is totally worth the trouble.  Here's how:

1.    Cast on 1/2 the number of stitches required, using smooth waste yarn.  Any old cast on will do - just get the stitches on.  This only works for even numbers; in my case, I ultimately need 80 stitches, so I cast on 40.

40 sts cast on in smooth strong waste yarn.

2.    Now purl one row:

One row purled.

3.    Thus begins the fiddly bit:  Knit the next row, but instead of wrapping the yarn around the needle once as you normally would, wind it around a second time.  That's two wraps for every single stitch.

Knit row, with each stitch wrapped twice instead of the usual once.

4.    Break the waste yarn and start working with your real yarn on the next row, which will be all purls.  Notice that as you knit into the twice-wrapped stitches from the previous row, you get great big elongated stitches of waste yarn.  These will help you in the next step.  Work a total of 4 rows in your real yarn.  You still only have half the number of required stitches (in my case, 40).

4 rows worked in real yarn.  Double-wrapped waste yarn row creates elongated waste stitches.

5.    Now find another needle a couple of sizes smaller than the one you are using for the ribbing.  Mine is a gold one in this photo.   Working from the wrong side, use your finer needle to pick up the purl bumps of real yarn from its first row.

Picking up the purl bumps of real yarn.

Keep going until you have picked up every single purl bump onto your finer needle.

All the purl bumps are now stitches on the finer needle (below).  Original needle is still in place (top).

6a.    Next, using the mate to your original needle (same size as the ribbing will be worked in), purl 2 sts from the top needle.

Purl 2 sts.

6b.    Now knit 2 sts from the lower (finer) needle, and repeat to the end of the row.

p2, k2, repeat to end.

This is what it looks like at the end of steps 6a & 6b.  You have folded those first 4 rows of real knitting in half horizontally, into a tubular edge.

Kickass 2 x 2 tubular edge shown from the wrong side.

Kickass 2 x 2 tubular edge shown from the right side.

7.     Last, either cut or unknot the waste yarn and pull it out.

Waste yarn removal.

Continue in 2 x 2 rib as you normally would, but with a well-earned degree of smugness.

Totally elastic tubular edge, with no visible cast on loops at lower edge.

Fiddly and worth it.

I will never approach hat edges or sock tops, or any 2 x 2 edge with fear or loathing again.  And now you, Gentle Readers, are free as well.  Knit Long and Prosper.
 

Mark Me

I realized the other day that while I am always telling people to use stitch markers, I have not illustrated my favorite kind. 

Because of the way I use (and lose) my markers, I have learned that the best way to keep enough around to both find and share, is to make my own.  I have some rules about my stitch markers (try to contain your surprise):

    1.    Small Enough.  Most stitch markers are way too large for the gauge I usually work with (size 0-4 needles).  Using markers that are too large in diameter is not only awkward, it will actually leave vertical valleys in your knitting if the stitches have to stretch around them.  This is exacerbated when you change colors adjacent to a marker (which I do a lot).  You have to use the smallest possible marker (that you can still see and manipulate).

    2.    Snagless.  I have yet to see any markers available in stores or online which are made the way mine are.  When you make a stitch marker from a metal ring (preferable to a plastic one, because it will be finer, see above), the join where the ends of the ring meet will always be a point where the yarn can catch and snag.  Undesireable.  I have solved the problem with simple craft-store jewelry findings.

    3.    Pretty.  When you are going to hold a tool in your hands for hundreds of hours, why settle for anything ugly?  Making your own markers also allows you to have any and all the different colors, shapes and sizes you want.  They are inexpensive, and make really good presents for your knitting friends.

When I first made my own markers, a few years ago, it was not possible to buy anything but plain round rings, or the safety-pin type that separate.  You can now get really pretty markers very easily, but I still have not seen any that are made the way I do mine:  Guaranteed Snagless.  The secret is really simple, and today I'm sharing it with you.  First, assemble the following:
 

The most important item in this collection is the small bracelet toggle.  They are perfect for stitch markers because they are made in one single piece, with no join.  I bought a package containing 9 sets of these yesterday, for $1.99.  You'll be using the ring side of the set (you can save the bar side of the set for some other use.  And when you find that use, please tell me what it is so I can divest myself of a million toggle bars I have saved).  The other bits are readily available, and possibly already in your house.  If you don't have the round nose pliers, it's really worth picking up a cheap set - I am not a jewelery or beading person, usually, but I have found many uses for mine.  Have fun picking out your beads - just be careful not to have them too large or they will get in your way when you knit.  10 mm or smaller is a good guideline.  I like to make my markers in sets of 2 because I use them to mark either side of a steek.  So a typical project for me might have 3 sets of 2 markers (center steek, & two armholes), with each set in a different color so I can tell where I am in the round of knitting.

Arrange your beads in a pleasing order on the head pin.  I like using bead caps on my markers because they remind me of tiny hats.

Use your round nose pliers to make a loop in the top of the head pin.  Make sure to leave a little space between the top bead and the loop.  You'll need it for the final step.

Slide the ring from the bracelet toggle set onto the loop you made in the head pin.

Hold the marker by its top loop in one set of pliers, and use the other set to snugly wrap the tail of the head pin around itself.  Two or three times around is fine.  Trim the end of the tail with your cutters, and gently smoosh it up against the core of the head pin so it can't catch on your yarn.

Finis!  Keep making these until you are sick of it, or run out of one or more components.  Having enough markers around is crucial so you won't cry or throw things when they get lost.  I keep mine in a little clear box in my knitting bag.  I bet at the moment there are 20 of them in there, just in case.  Of what, I'm not sure.  Global stitch marker shortage?  Not now that you all know the secret!

How To Make A Spinning Wheel Bag

Lately it seems that whenever I want to know how to do something, it's really difficult for me to find information (or safety warnings, as the case may be) from those who have tried it before.  This leads me to believe that Something Ought To Be Done, and so I have begun to make these little tutorials.  On the chance that others may be looking for the same help, I'm offering up what I have learned.  I hope you will contact me with ideas for future tutorials - I'm always eager to learn and share, even if it's from the perspective of what not to do.

Here's where I left off with the BFRBSW:  When last I reported, I was struggling with the color of my repurposed wool, having achieved only Persimmon, when I wanted RED.  I braced myself for the worst, convinced that to get real red I would have to take off the gloves (or put them ON, as it turns out) and get some Real dye - the kind you can't get at the grocery store that has heavy metals and other scary things in it.  And then by the time I calculated shipping costs and waiting times, I had chickened myself out.  I decided to try one more time, this time, using my beloved drink mix.  No less than 12 packets of Tropical Punch later (plus a whole bottle of green food coloring I had laying around, just for giggles), and I got the painted, rustic, RED look I was hoping for:

Here's a shot of the back, where you can also see that I attached a couple of 1 1/2" straps, backpack style, with a loop at the top for grabbing hold of.  You can also see that the bottom 1/3 of my side gusset is reinforced with ballistic nylon, for a little extra stability.

Here you can see how thick and fluffy my felted wool blanket is:

Two layers together are easily 1/2" thick, so do not attempt these maneuvers outside of a closed course with safety personnel standing by.  Go slow with your machine, and for pity's sake, do NOT run over any pins.  You can also see the zipper in this shot, already inserted into the side gusset.

I was so pleased with myself after achieving Kool-Aid success that I decided to use the scraps that had not been dyed yet as surface decoration:

Here they are drying in the sun outside.  I cut them out freehand and threw them randomly into 4 different pots of Dylon (Flamingo Pink, Bahama Blue, Amazon Green, and Intense Violet).

And here's the Big Payoff:

The round felt balls are premade from the craft store (create when you must, cheat when you can), and the tassel-thingys are zipper pulls I made from the embellishment scraps.  I think it has a fun cartoon-y quality, which is about right for what amounts to the world's largest homemade backpack:

Size reference = actual 7-year old

And that's all it took:  Old blanket + Way the hell too much time + Perseverance = BFRBSW.

Here's an official materials list, for any brave (or broke) souls who wish to attempt their own:

1 Old wool blanket, free of moth holes or stains, felted (about 2.5 yds total fabric needed)
2 yds pre-quilted lining fabric for lining
1 36" 2-way zipper
1.5" buttons (2)
.25 yds ballistic nylon for bottom reinforcement
1 packet felted wool beads

The side gusset and pockets are not drawn in my pattern schematic, but measure as follows:
Side Gusset:    7"H x 66"L rectangle, seamed at center bottom of bag, slit horizontally in center 36" to accommodate zipper.
Pocket:            14"W x 10"H with rounded lower corners
Pocket Flap:     14"W x 4"H with rounded lower corners
Bag Bottom:     7"H x 22"L

Vague Sewing Instructions (this is a knitting blog, after all, and if you are confident enough to attempt sewing this project, you probably don't need much from me anyway.  That said, please e-mail me if I can help at all):

Cut front and back (one each from outer fabric and lining fabric)
Cut side gusset (one each from outer fabric and lining fabric)
Cut one pocket and one pocket flap from outer fabric
Cut one lower reinforcement from nylon fabric

Cut a 36" horizontal slit in side gusset and side gusset lining.  Install zipper in outer fabric side gusset.  Join ends of side gusset.  Baste lower reinforcement to side gusset, centering on gusset seam.  Pin and sew pocket and flap in place on bag front.  Pin and sew side gusset to bag front, centering bottom and zipper.  Pin and sew bag back.  Repeat with lining pieces.  Insert lining into bag and stitch in place by hand, inside, along zipper edge.  Pin strap in place and stitch firmly by hand at ends and center back loop, as shown.  Add embellishments as desired.

My wheel is a Lendrum DT Complete, so if you have the same model, these measurements will work for you as is.  If yours is a different brand of folding wheel, you will need to measure accordingly, but the basic pieces should still work for you.

In addition to the donated wool outer fabric, I spent about $75 on materials (including dyestuffs for 2 attempts, YMMV)  The only commercially-available spinning wheel bag I am aware of sells for $120-$200, depending on the fabric you choose.  Totally worth it, if you have the means, and your time is worth anything (it IS).  If you lack the means, or just want yours to be different from what everyone else has when you show up for spinning class, I recommend making your own!