Some Birds Get Dressed for a Party

In this post I was planning to show you what my own Permission Denied chart looks like as I work. To do that I had to make sure the marks I'm making on it actually reflect what I am knitting; a situation that is never guaranteed, as my Technical Editor will attest. In fact, one of the big challenges I face as a designer is the fact that my ideas sometimes happen so fast that they literally get knitted into my projects before I have time to properly document them. 

Fortunately for you, Gentle Readers, we are working concurrently on a design that is already mostly fleshed out. Which means that if I come up with any interesting twists on the pattern, you can make the same changes I do, right along with me. Those of you who cleverly arrived a little later at the party, and are still planning your own Permission Denied sweater will benefit even more. By the time you get to the point in the knitting where I changed things, I'll have shaken out any errors in the documentation. Hopefully. Below you'll see where my rounds start and finish: I've marked them with pink bars for each motif. By the way, thanks again, Martin Storey, for a pattern with six (6!) different motif stitch counts. Dude, can you even knit? Just wondering.

Notice anything different? I sat down to show you where my rounds are beginning and ending on the chart. But then I started to really study the chart from a purely color-centered point of view, and I decided there are a few more things I'd like to change about this design.

1.  In the original, there are no transitions between the bands of color. This is only true for those of us not using the original (unavailable) yarn. Rowan's Colorspun has/had the property of blending lots of colors together, so that the motif bands in the sweater are connected to one another in color by some overlap within the yarn. The original version depends on this quality in the yarn to lend cohesion between the differently-shaded bands.  My yarn, however, lacks any such subtle sophistication. In fact, the uncomplicated, single-hue skeins I'm using look positively primitive when I work the charts as they were originally planned. And that's fine, if the simple look makes me happy, which it mostly does, especially when the charts are really busy, like these are. Vines, and birds, and flowers and braids, O My. But on further reflection, I decided that I wanted to do something to change the abruptness of the color changes between motif bands in my sweater.

2.  I don't love the original, narrow geometric peerie bands between the rows of knots on the upper part of the sweater. Everything down in the lower borders is curvy and natural and soft, and everything in the upper part is straight and geometric. Another disconnect, to my eye. I realized that changing the separator bands on the upper body could solve more than one problem for my project: Repeating both the colors, and one of the motifs from my lower borders (red, blue, and the flower from the birds band) makes my version feel more cohesive to me.

3.  Once I had added the repeated elements to the upper body, I realized that I wanted to pull some of my taupe color down into the lower area. Which I have already knitted. Bother. Not to worry: I can increase the taupeyness down there with a few strategically-placed duplicate stitches. I changed those areas on my chart to show me where to embroider. Knitters following after me could choose weather to do the same, or if you'd rather just work a few rounds with three strands in them. And while I was at it, I added some pops of red in the taupe bands, and, um, I *may* have had a conversation with my birds.

4.  It seems that now I've created this sweater full of jewel tones, and knots that feel kind of Medieval and illuminated, and my birds wanted to get more dressed up. Who am I to argue with a bunch of birds that I haven't even finished knitting yet? I pulled out my imaginary bird jewelry box (like you don't have one, too), and gave them some pretty necklaces, as well as royal crowns. Bird crowns! What could be more obvious?

These really are the diversions that keep me up at all hours. If you'd like to dress up your birds, too, head on over to the Ravelry group, where you'll find a link to my personal chart in the charts thread. These birds are going to one very fancy party, and of course, your birds are invited too. Think they'll invite us?

Twist and Shout

Yeah. So, that happened. Fortunately I only worked the first band before realizing what I had done. Has this ever happened to you? If so, now you can prove that you are not alone. If not, shut it: no one likes a showoff.

But of course, jacking up knitting is just one more service I provide: I have seized this teachable moment to share with you how I proceed when this happens. First, I cussed a blue streak.

Next, I bound off all 6 steek stitches. Then, with a hand needle and sewing thread, I secured the knitted stitches on either side of the center. Sorry; there's no photo of that part because I couldn't sew and hold the camera at the same time. Visualize what sewing looks like. Sewing while still swearing.

Then I cut the infant steek, and removed the twist from my round. Swearing began to slow at that point.

Being careful not to put too much pressure on the stitches at the cut edges, I picked up and knit new steek stitches through the bound-off ones. The stream of invective dissipated after that. And I felt better without the twist in my round.

Now that I've knit away from it a bit more, you can see that the cut area is really small. The rest of the steek will get cut too, before we're done, and then covered up with something. So it's only ugly for now, and only for the first inch or so. 

And swearing is super cathartic, at least the way I do it.

Oh, and I got so excited about getting started knitting, I forgot to tell you the winner of the blog poll on which yarn I should choose: Paragon, by Knit Picks. It's actually on sale, as of this writing, which is a bonus if you want some too. I'm really enjoying the sheen of the silk, and the awesome twist, too. It is a bit slippery, but thanks to a nice, toothy wooden needle, it's tensioning okay. I would not want to work with this yarn on a metal needle, though, if it could be helped. Oh, and that blue strand at the bottom is a provisional cast on, in case you're wondering. I just couldn't commit to an edge treatment, so I started without one.

Notice how the braids and the vine-y bits are mirroring each other exactly? I love it when a plan comes together.

Getting Centered

First of all, a heartfelt THANK YOU to all who are requesting the "Permission Denied" chart! Your outpouring of love and interest in this project is proof of the kindness and generosity of knitters everywhere. For those who asked, the e-mail mary@maryscotthuff.com is linked to PayPal, if you would like to send me (your personal knitting friend), a little something because you like the chart. The other question I've been asked is "Can I share the chart with my other knitting friends?" YES! Please do. I think the more Permission Denied projects that get out into the world, the better. And do feel free to modify any and all parts of it to suit yourself, too. My hope is to make this a design that is fun and easy to knit, so your input and modifications are welcome and encouraged. Not sure you want to get involved in this particular circus? Request a copy of the redrawn chart anyway: Comparing it to the original HERE will be fun and helpful for any chart you'd like to modify for circular knitting.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

And now down to business! Now that you have determined your perfect knitting gauge by swatching (remember: we are ignoring gauge suggestions on ball bands and in that other pattern), in stitches per inch, multiply it by the number of inches in your preferred silhouette. Round up or down to get an odd number, and that is the number of stitches you'll cast on.

Casting on! What could be better? Use the diagram above (feel free to print and share) to center each motif. You'll see on the "Motif Repeats" version of the chart I sent you that each of our 6 motifs has its own stitch count, and I've drawn separate versions of each for left, right and center placement. Each time you begin working on a different set of motifs, make sure to count and center them on your body cylinder. Remember: the center motifs may have different stitch counts than the left/right versions, so count carefully.

Getting started can be a bit fiddly ("Crap! I was off by one stitch somewhere!"), but once you have the first set of motifs properly centered, the rest should be much easier. For this part of the project, we are just making a body-sized tube of stranded colorwork: Easy! Enjoy the process and take your time. 

Do check in on Ravelry if you need help. If you have a question, chances are good others do too, and it's so helpful to share. Posting photos there is also wonderfully useful, both to me as I help you, and to others knitting along.

Oh, and if you are like me and just can't decide what lower edge treatment is your favorite right now, do what I did and use a provisional cast on to get started. That way you can jump right into the fun part! Knit On, Gentle Readers, and thanks again for the love.